352 : Northern House Martin

House Martin - Delichon urbicum

I am writing this from the sunroom of our holiday cottage in Boot, Eskdale Valley in the Lake District. We have come back to the South-West Lakes (taking the Wainwright delineation) for the third time in 10 years.

Our cottage is a stone built affair with half metre thick walls. The view is spectacular - a rock, scree and wooded ridge line alternatively clothed in mist and cloud or bright against the cold sky. In the bottom of the Esk valley the eponymous winding mountain river and a ribbon of deciduous woods.

A walk this morning discovered Roe Deer, a toad and a huge mixed feeding flock of tits;coal and willow tit, great and blue all mixed in together.

The pastures hold a good variety of old fashioned cow breeds and with them flies and hirundines.

I am delighted to see the tree in the corner of the short lawn area dripping with House Martins - newly fledged and waiting to set out on the long haul back to Africa.

I have never seen them perch in a tree before - the swallows are collecting on the top wire of the fence in a nearby cow pasture but the Martins seem to collect in the tree every hour or so before heading out again to fatten up. Even in the misty Lakeland weather they seem to be content hawking for insects at 5-20 m The swallows are buzzing the ground but the martins seem more to cruise around in loose flocks at tree height or more. 

House Martin, Delichon urbicum

Boot, Eskdale, Cumbria

22 August 2018

351 : African Harrier-Hawk

African Harrier-Hawk - Polyboroides typus

The South Luangwa National Park is the largest safari destination in Zambia. Situated half way up the course of the relatively unspoilt Luangwa river valley. The park has been in operation since the 50's. Our camp, Chinzombo was a permanent camp set on an oxbow lake right on the river towards the Southern end of the park. On one of our 5 days we elected for a big adventure driving North for an all day trip with a packed lunch. We ventured into the Lion plain - an area where the camps were already closed as the rains were setting in. The result ? We had the whole park, an area perhaps the size of an English County, all  to ourselves ! At some points we worked out that we were probably 30 miles from the nearest other human beings. Deep into the bush.

Some of the most beautiful features of the park are its ebony glades. The trees line up alongside historic water courses. We were lucky enough to take in quite a few of these during our big adventure. Simon Barnes, the excellent sports and travel writer has written a book called the Sacred Coombe which focuses particularly on South Luangwa with which he clearly fell in love. The premise of his book these secret spiritual places and journeys. Not in any hippy sense but just a personal and quiet spiritual sense - renewal through these secret hidden beautiful spaces in nature. These are the places and moments we need to seek out to remain whole in this world.

I forget the name of each "glade" - the combination of beautiful shade and trees though was stunning - entirely different from the usual "Miombi" or Acacia shrub that we are used to traveling through in Africa. You wouldn't have felt out of place sat next to some form of African elf. I haven't paid enough attention to trees in my life - utterly deserving or portraits. Family portraits here.

Before I get onto the encounter with the African Harrier-Hawk I had a lovely photo session with a buffalo attended by a Yellow-billed Oxpecker.

This is first time I have actually looked at a buffalo properly through a lens.

And this was the shot I wanted. Riding as if in the turret of a tank - or perhaps some undersized jockey in a bizarre race. In any event entirely in command of its vehicle or mount - or  so it thinks ! I love this picture - it goes into a safari top ten of shot so far in my life.

That is a big lump of beef. It was a long day with some fantastic encounters. The Harrier-Hawk was spotted soon after resting on the sandy bank of a lake edge. A long way off so you will excuse the quality of the pictures.

The face on the his bird is flushed red - I am not sure if this is associated with males in breeding or why this happens. The overall plumage a very smart grey with a barred front.

The bird then flew and I did my best to crank out some shots in flight that allow a solid identification. These birds are quite long legged and adapted for winkling out nestlings and lizards from cavities and chicks from weaver nests. They are often seen dangling upside down in order to access difficult sell spaces.

These birds are fairly widespread with a population of a million spread across the bulk of Sub-Saharan Africa. Still a first for me and better picture is needed.

African Harrier-Hawk, Polyboroides types
South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
November 2018

350 : Kittlitz's Plover

Kittlitz's Plover - Charadrius pecaurius 

Yes there has been an almighty dearth of posting for the last few months. This whole project has just ground to a halt really. The main issue in my head is the way that the collection is now scattered across two sites. It would be a shame to let that throw me though so I am going to keep plugging away and catch up at least the photos that I have on the stocks.

November 2017 Jane and I took a ridiculous trip to the South Luanga National Park in Zambia. "Ridiculous" in that we went on our own minus the boys (who both now board in the UK) and that we went a little bit high end at a camp called Chinzombo - a Norman Carr camp. It was right at the very end of the season before the rains came and on some days there were only perhaps us and one other couple in a camp. We flew into Lusaka and had an overnight in a Raddison and then caught a much smaller plane up to the airport to be met by our guide for the drive in. One of this pinch me arrivals - we had booked up for 5 whole  nights at Chinzombo - plenty of time to unpack all of lenses books and coloring pencils and get into the rhythm of the camp - which could be simply explained as food, resting, pre-dinner cocktails and exciting safari drives.

The camp was situated on the river itself just opposite the park. Each day we would ferry across to the vehicles. We had a guide and vehicle to ourselves and were usually also accompanied by an armed guard as part of the program was walking safaris. It is very different to get down out of the vehicle on safari - the couple of times that we did it were very memorable. Ferry crossing and guard below.

I am reminded this is not Conde Naste but a birding blog. There was a single Kittlitz's Plover which seemed to frequent a riving crossing that we had to make a few times which gave us a short cut to see a pack of wild dogs. Tiny little plover - perhaps as small as a little stint. I am not actually sure that I managed a decent picture with the 400 m lens having found this weak shot on a collection of images from my mobile phone. It counts though - a small African plover to add to the collection.

Kittlitz's Plover, Charadrius pecaurius
South Luanga National Park, Zambia
November 2017

349 : Giant Kingfisher

Giant Kingfisher - Megaceryle maxima

The frequency of posts to this site have dwindled and almost died. The Task however lives on through 2017 a large number of photos were taken in my travels - I just seem to lost my voice for posting them up - and I guess I am bit disheartened by not having them all in one place.

Its no reason to give up though so I will kick off 2018 with a retrospective to a beautiful trip to Zambia. I always planned to treat myself and Jane to a Safari at some point without the kids. If only to see what retirement like look like. They are both boarding now in the UK so really there are no restraints on travel other than the wallet and work. So a few weeks after the "little one" started at his new school in the UK I dragged his Mum kicking and screaming to the South Luanga National Park. More specifically a nice high end Safari lodge called Chinzombo. Absolute indulgence - 5 days and nights of fabulous dining, gin and tonics, private game drives, wild  dogs (more of them in later posts) and animals and birds and well just Africa.

Nobody looks at this site but me so I write this almost as a diary. Two previous Safari experiences to Tanzania  can all be found on the "lost site" - Neil's Daily Bird on the link above on the cross bar. It been a while though - 2013 we were in Ruaha National Park for 5 days and 2012 was our first Safari taking in Lake Manara, Ngorogoro Crater and then the gorgeous Serengeti. Africa and  Safari more particularly gets under your skin. Its like Xmas with animals - at least it is the way I like to do it.

I don't drive a fancy car for Dubai standards and these days I can't claim even to eat out once a week. A normal weekend involves 3-4 hours work and most days see me in the office for 10-12 hours. I save my money but every year I am more than happy after school fees to pay for a couple of really fabulous holidays and make sure that everyone gets a break and some memories are laid down. I met a bloke in the Serengeti - perhaps we only crossed paths in camp for a night or two but gave a small speech over a glass of wine at dinner that revolved around the importance of holidays - especially for families which in essence are on borrowed time as the years roll by.

That promise to the whole family remains and last year we made it to the US and previous years have taken in the Seychelles, Vancouver Island, Sri Lanka, Mauritius and safaris. Have scattered a few links to some holiday birding posts. I can see now the opportunity to take a quick trip without the boys each year - whether thats a European City for a spot of high culture and food or lovely but different a trip out on safari - plenty of plans for tigers, wales, gorillas. I don't fancy looking at pictures of Porsche or a Ferrari while sitting in my sheltered housing at 90 (touch wood). It going to be heaps of pictures of bird and safari lodges, eco lodges, rainforests, rivers, mountains and animals.

So this Giant Kingfisher was photographed on our last game drive along the Luango river after a fabulous 5 days. A kingfisher almost the size of a small crow. One can only imagine the size of fish that this individual is taking on !

This is much a post for myself to remind myself where my site is and how to post up the photos and so on. I will get back into the swing of this but for now it might be enough just to get a few birds under my belt. Maximus below as we might call him is as good a place as any to start. Very stop of that safari truck a precious new bird. How many more stops on the way to complete the task ? Thousands. Any good to be back

Giant Kingfisher, Megceryle maxima
South Luanga National Park
Zambia
November 2017

348 : Madagascar Turtle-dove

Madagascar Turtle-dove - Nesoenas picturatus

Holiday season is nearly upon me and thoughts turn in part to the task which seems to exist these days only on family holidays. I have not really been out birding for my own enjoyment in any circumstances for a good year. I have not stopped to analyse why that is. I haven't even written up the birds that I have seen in Malasyia, Seychelles and elsewhere. I think losing access to my old web site has created a mental block. It just doesn't feel as good to come to a website with less than a dozen posts. The idea that everything is not in one place anymore is a bit upsetting.

I won't make myself any promises but what I will do is just gently get my camera kit in a good shape for the US and keep to my routine which includes time for a Daily Bird. It would be a shame to lose the habit of collecting these beautiful pictures and having a way to look at life other than through a cocktail list of work email inbox. That's a touch harsh but birding does elevate free time to something a little more adventurous than pushing a trolley around Spinneys.

These charming Doves were there to greet me each morning at breakfast at the Constance Ephilia. What a lucky and privileged life I lead. This was a superb family holiday - location, activities, food, privacy. Stunning place. It was a full board type arrangement so I could wander down to this restaurant next to a perfect tropical beach and have juice, eggs cooked as I wanted them and so on. How can anything be wrong with life when you can do that for a week ? We are off to New York in about 2 weeks and after a week of the Big Apple we are going up to Vermont to the Green Mountain National Park - a place called Manchester ! Time once again for my Sibley ! I have never really got to grips with simple basic US birds. I will have a backyard so I should be able to do some backyard birding.

Madagascar Turtle-Dove, Nesoena picturatus
Constance Ephilia, Mahe, Seychelles
August 2016

347 : Stripe-throated Bulbul

Stripe-throated Bulbul - Pycnonotus finlaysoni

I am surrounded by Bulbuls where I live in Dubai so its hard to get excited about these birds. This is a handsome enough species though common to this part of South-East Asia from Vietnam down around to Singapore and up into parts of China and Myanmar. I'd see these birds round the gardens at the lodge in Taman Negarra.

My life outside of stomping along jungle paths and floating down the river in my motor propelled  dug out tree consisted mostly of eating, trying to keep up with work with a very tenuous internet connection and then in the evening gently getting inebriated and then staying up far too late taking photographs of the local moths - "Moth Partee". They deserve a longer post in themselves but the general idea was to turn on the light on my back porch, head off for a big spicy dinner with several beers and then to return and try to see juts how many species of moth could be captured on film. Some epic "Partee" went on into the small hours - testing different configuration of lens, tripods and cameras.

Butterflys were certainly another draw - you didn't have to stray far from your table at the restaurant to capture some beautiful images.

Some days large flocks would gather at the edge of freshwater puddles to feed.

The music though again in the restaurant would drive me mad. They had one tape lasting about 90 minutes that went round and round. "Blue Blue my life is blue. Blue is my world when I'm without you". If you have ever had a naff song seared into your brain over a dozen meals by perhaps working in a restaurant then you will know the torture. I just have no concept of how they found these songs ? Were 60's euro-hits somehow de rigeur in jungle lodges in Malaysia. In a Stockholm syndrome type transference I spent a long time identifying and locating the various sh*t pieces of music that were inflicted on me in this solitary  mix tape. I know the full history of "Love is Blue" ("L'amor est bleu") as a recorded work eventually identifying a country and western version by Marty Robins that I preferred to the more classic Al Martino version. It was of course originally a euro vision song contest ditty.  I even listen to it (in numerous versions) at the gym and I use it as a soundtrack on my holiday slide show. The descent into madness while traveling alone has its own soundtrack.

To brighten things up I have to give a big tick to Malaysian food. Nasi Goreng became my staple. Rice usually chased down by a half dozen little side dishes of salty anchovy sauce, peanut satay and the like. Chilled beer, euro-trash and spicy food and butterflies. Not all bad.

I stopped short of ordering the local golden river perch delicacy. Given that I had seen signs for a fish conservation area and that the restaurant required 24 hours notice to lay on the perch banquet I thought it probably best to avoid. 

Stripe-thoated Bulbul, Pyconotus finlaysoni
Taman Negarra National Park, Peninsula Malaysia
9 June 2016

346 : Black-and-Red Broadbill

Black-and-Red Broadbill - Cymbirynchus macrorynchus

Another star bird from the colourful middle of the fieldguide. Again picked up on a "float down" the river. These birds build a grass-woven pear shaped nest chamber suspended and hanging down from a branch. We came across one mid-stream. Presumably a great deterrent to snakes and other nest predators. I did not manage to get a decent picture of this bird so I really need a better picture another time when I journey back to South-East Asia.

While we are on the subject of snakes we may as well get the expedition's snake encounter out of the way !

I thought from my initial research that this is a Speckled Pit Viper (Trimeresurus Wagleri). I was dismayed that I found it on a webpage entitled "The Medically Important Poisonous Snakes of Malaysia" by Professor Tan who works in the Department of Molecular Medicine in the Medical Faculty of the University of Malaya. On this occasion though it was a frog and not me. I know nothing about snakes but Matte was having none of it and retreated off the boardwalk. He told me it was venomous.  It didn't take the fellow long to make short work of this quite large frog. Professor Tan seems to think its bite would cause pain and local swelling. Its not a Pit Viper though as the Vipers have a very triangular head - so what is it ? I have been through upwards of 50 snake families to find the answer ! Its a Common Bronze Back Tree Snake (Dendrelaphis tristis) - not venomous at all and from what I have now read it can just give you a little nip ! I guess we imagine the worst when we see a snake.

I estimate the snake was perhaps 4-5 foot long but probably no more than the size of an ordinary domestic water pipe - if that - perhaps no thicker than a thin branch or your thumb in places.

So Matte needn't have retreated 10 m up a slope - he was probably more likely to step on something else up there !

There is an awful lot of tail going on with this snake.

The colours were beautiful - thankfully with a 400 mm lens I did not have to get too close. At the time given Matte's reaction I though it was the sort of snake that would spoil your holiday pretty quickly.

The thing was beautiful though and when it decided it was time to go it was off - at time a full foot of its body up off the ground weaving around to find a way up off the boardwalk.

Matte honestly was a woose with this fellow which made me feel a lot better. Tramping around in the jungle in the dark though to get into position to try for a Pitta ? It makes you think twice. I certainly came away with a bit of reticence about the jungle. This guy didn't seem phased by us at all. I guess he was busy though ! In retrospect I will take a couple of lessons the next time I go somewhere as to which snakes are going to cause you a problem.

Black-And-Red Broadbill, Cymbirynchus macrorynchus
Taman Negara National Park, Peninsula Malaysia
June 2016